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Spencer and Cath's backpacking adventure from London to Brisbane via America, Europe and Asia

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Welcome to our website! From July 11th 2004 Spencer and Cath will spend a year backpacking their way from London to Brisbane via America, Europe and Asia

From the Great Wall of China to swimming with dolphins in the Florida Keys this site conveys our thoughts and experiences in the months before, during and after our big trip. We hope you stick with us through our journey and would be delighted if you Leave us a message!

Thursday 30th June 2005

Having checked out of our hotel the white knuckle taxi ride to the dock, via a remote hillside shanty town riddled with endemic poverty and delapilated housing was extremely eye opening. So much so that as we reached our destination we felt one or two pangs of guilt. Remarkably to my mind, despite the appalling conditions, the residents, far from wallowing in the despair of their squalor, appeared to emit a steely resolve to survive and a pride in what they had as being their own, which I found admirable. Although it stood just a few kilometres from the bustling city of Yichang this small pocket of life was a window into a different world that thankfully is alien to what I have lived in. Still as the cruise was costing us more than many of these people earned in a year the thought was not lost on me how lucky we in the western world are. And more to the point how, in the pursuit of material possessions like sports cars and Gucci handbags, we often take it for granted.

As it transpired our attempt to board the cruise boat was rather comical. For as we approached the entrance to the gleaming palatial seacraft that stood before us, the tumultuous welcome we received from the quartet of drummers and the colourful costumed dragon ensemble that served as a reception committee, was cut dramatically short when it emerged that we had actually booked in to another vessel. Still we did not mind too much because as the first passengers on board, aside from a delightful elder couple from Adelaide called Ralph and Helene, we had the run of the boat to ourselves and were able to explore its many facilities and the luxurious first class cabins at our leisure.

After spending the night in dock waiting for the other passengers to arrive, when we were roused the next morning at 6.40am by the melodic tones of 'Butterfly Lovers', the ship's signature wake up tune, we found ourselves entering the 'Xiling Gorge'. The first, and at 80km, longest of the Three Gorges. Dwarfed by thousands towering limestone cliffs that sheparded our serene progress upstream the scenery was so beautiful that we had to keep pinching ourselves to ensure we were not dreaming. It was a wonderful way to start the morning.

Shortly after breakfast, a veritable banquet of sumptious Chinese and Western fayre (including french fries!) far more deserving to someone of a higher social standing than us, we arrived at the port of Sandouping. The damsite of the Three Gorges Project. Situated about 38km upstream from the existing Gezhouba Dam and covering a total area of 15.28 sq km the Three Gorges Water Conservancy Project is the largest hydropower scheme in the world. On completion in 2009 China's biggest engineering project since the Great Wall will back up the Yangtze for 550km, flood an area the size of Singapore and force the relocation of over 2 million homes. It would have taken 17 years to build, cost as much as an estimated 70 billion US dollars and possess a total storage capacity of 39.30 billion cubic metres. Of which 22.15 billion cubic metres will be devoted to flood storage capacity.

Standing at 2309 metres long and 185b metres high the barrier is a triumph of modern technology. a colossal structure that made us further realise how insignificant man really is, its power is truly awesome. No less than 26 generators produce an annual output of 84.68kwh. A hydroelectric production that is the equivalent of 18 nuclear power plants and believed to be equal to almost a fifth of China's current generating capacity. Yet surprisingly, considering its power, the dam does not emit that much noise pollution. Moreover far from being a blot on the landscape, when you take the time to fully digest its appearance, one should note the dam as quite a striking feature.

Considering that it has been championed that the construction of the dam will benefit the country greatly in terms of flood control, power generation, breeding of aquatic products, tourism, shipping, irrigation, eco-protection and environmental purification one can be forgiven for thinking that the nation has embraced the project with open arms. However the massive scale of the project had caused major controversy.

Aside from fears about its cost, the social implication of relocating more than 2 million families and the fact that the rising waters will cover scores of cultural artefacts at over 8000 archaeological sites in the Chang Jiang Basin, the main concern is environmental. Dubbed 'the most socially and environmentally destructive am in history' by Friends of the Earth it is thought that as the river slows so will its ability to oxygenate. Consequently the untreated waste, toxic materials and pollutants from the towns, factories and industrial sites in the locality could well create the largest cesspit in the world. One that could block the turbines of the dam, silt up many ports, including that of Chongqing and run to extinction endangered species like the Yangzi River Dolphin, Chinese Sturgeon and Siberian Crane. Some critics even say that the sheer volume of water could even induce a localised earthquake, whilst others even more frighteningly posit that if it collapsed, which actually happened to two dams in the Henan Province in 1975 killing upwards of 230,000 people, the entire 4 million population of Yichang would be dead within an hour. A very sobering thought indeed.

One I would have rather not have heard whilst our boat was negotiating the 3 hour 100 metre high descent up the dam's 5 locks.

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Wednesday 29th June 2005

Surpassed in length only by the Amazon and the Nile, Chang Jiang, or the Yangtze River as it is more commonly known to westerners, is the third longest river in the world. From its initial descent in the 6000 metre high snow clad mountains of Tanggula Shan in South West China this enormous waterway runs east for over 6400km, sweeping through Tibet and 7 other provinces before emptying out into the East China Sea just north of Shanghai.

Although the river has a dangerous side, with currents running up to 60km/hr, and a strong propensity to flood, a plague that took more than 1 million lives last century, Chang Jiang ironically serves as a major lifeline to local residents. For within a watershed of about 2 million sq km, around a fifth of China's total landmass, the river supports a population of over 400 million. More than the entire number of people in Europe. In the Red Basin area of Sichaun alone it nourishes just under twice the number of Indonesia's residents. The fourth most populous country in the world. It is a major source of food, transportation and trade and at any one time it positively teems with all manner of vessels carrying such commodities as coal, oil, rice, salt, silk and tea.

Aside from these vessels Chang Jiang has also been a long time magnet for cruise boats taking tourists through the fabled Three Gorges. A trio of wondrous landscapes between the towns of Fengjie in Sichaun and Yichang in Hubei that ranks as one of China's greatest natural scenic wonders. However in recent years there has been a marked upsurge in the number of visitors. The reason for this has been the commencement of the Sanxia Daba, the controversial project of the Three Gorges Dam.

For all its perceived benefits when complete in 2009 the creation of the dam, the subsequent rising of the water level by 40 metres and the destruction and relocation of over 2 million people's homes will change the features of not only the Three Gorges, but of the entire region of South West China forever. As a result the number of tour boats running along the river has significantly increased as people rush to see the Three Gorges in their original form whilst they still can.

In years to come, when the landscape has changed, I look forward to being able to say I was one of them,

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Tuesday 28th June 2005

With only 2 employees on view on a concourse the size of a small car park our arrival at Yichang airport, and the subsequent drive through seemingly remote and fertile countryside, into the city itself, signified that we had well and truly stepped away from the tourist trail most westerners take. Indeed in the entire time we spent here we only saw one other person of western appearance whilst walking the streets. Out of a population of 4 million that is quite a minority.

Sitting just to the right of central China, in the heart of the Hubei province, Yichang is a gritty port town which, like much of the rest of the country is plagued with mass construction and a thick perpetual veil of smog. Two factors which rendered the visual benefits of procuring a room on the 20th floor of the Yichang International Hotel somewhat redundant. A real departure from the more commercial metropolis of Beijing and Xian, Yichang, although a thriving city in its own right, appears to have retained a sense of the old world. Where hoardes of people gossip in small clusters on the streets whilst squatting on their haunches, men transport stacks of dead pigs and chickens on their bicycles and spitting noisily and indiscriminantly is almost considered as natural as breathing.

With a lack of bona fida tourist sites to visit in the city Yichang is less geared towards and used to the presence of western tourists. Consequently a stay here provided more of a challenge to us. Not least in dealing with the constant stares we received, the animated bouts of pointing to other people's food that accompanied our frequenting of restaurants without English menus and having to contend with the mountain of chillis that the locals used in their street food. But with a warm smile, a bit of patience and the often inappropriate overuse of the Mandarin phrases 'ni hao' (hello) and 'xie xie' (thank you) it was challenges we managed to negotiate without many major dramas. However as enjoyable and character building as it was, after a while the repeated tests began to take its toll and by the end of our 3 nights stay we felt jaded and in definite need of an easier ride.

A good thing then that a luxury 4 star 4 night cruise along the Yangtze River was to be the next phase of our big trip.

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Saturday 25th June 2005

In 1974 a group of peasants digging a well hit upon a solid object. On closer inspection the object turned out to be a life size and incredibly life like model of a human face. On even closer inspection it appeared that the face had come from an underground vault of earth and timber. Several painstaking months of excavation later it emerged that these peasants, although they could not have possibly known it at the time, had uncovered one of the most sensational archaeological discoveries in history. For having been lost to mankind for over 2200 years they had just stumbled across the Army of the Terracotta Warriors.

As this attraction, arguably China's biggest drawcard behind the Great Wall, lies more than 35km from Xian's city centre and considering that the alternative methods of getting there would involve a journey on a bus transportation system that is slow, erratic and crowded, or the deathwish that is a Formula 1 type ride in a taxi, we decided to partake in yet another organised tour. Not least to benefit from the vast pool of knowledge that the guides possess. As it turned out, with a couple of extra sites thrown in, and the facilitation of a relatively smooth passage past a bombardment of aggressive and unrelenting hawkers selling an unbelievable range of tourist tat, the decision proved inspired.

Having spent a sodden morning visiting the magnificent Big Wild Goose Pagoda, which sits regally amidst a stunning backdrop of craggy hills and landscaped gardens, the rather disappointing Huaqing Hot Springs, which to my dismay was neither hot or particularly springy and a factory which showed us how the Terracotta Warriors were made, we arrived at the site just as the sun began to emerge from behind the cadaverous grey clouds. A bit of a shame then that we were heading indoors. After watching the rather compelling Circle Vision documentary, an introductory film which outlines a brief history of the statue's creation, demise and subsequent discovery, we made our way to the first of the three underground vaults.

The fact that excavations are still in progress some 30 years after their initial discovery indicates the size and significance of the site. Yet it is only when you cast your first glance inside the complex that you truly begin to comprehend its magnificence. Standing at 210 metres long from east to west, 60 metres wide from north to south and between 5-7 metres high the chmaber is much bigger than had ever been intimated to me on the travel programmes and photographs I had seen. It rather staggered me at first and as we walked round the observation deck that lined its perimeter the thought occured to me that the area exceeded that of 2 football pitches.

Although you can not get to up close and personal to the figures the overall view from the observation deck of the 6000 Terracotta Warriors and horses facing east in a rectangular battle formation is as dramatic as it is awe-inspiring. The attention to detail is incredible. Each figure differs facially both in terms of features and expressions (folklore has it that the sculptors used their colleagues, friends and even themselves as models for the faces) and even more impressively the warriors convey traits and attire appropriate to their rank. The horseman for instance are portrayed wearing tight fitting outer robes, chainmail coats and windproof caps, whilst the bodies and limbs of the archers are positioned in such a precise way that they adhere to an ancient book on the art of war.

Along with the second vault which held 1000 warriors and the third smaller chamber that contained 68 figures and one war chariot the Terracotta Army, which was burried with the first Qin Emperor over 2200 years ago is an extraordinary construction. The skill, determination and patience required to produce the statues is mind blowing and I feel privileged not just to have been able to visit the end product, but also take photographs which is evidently a very recent allowance. However it is an honour that became tinged with sadness when I learnt that the figures used to be even more grandiose. For when first created the warriors were brightly painted and each one was armed with real weapons of the times including swords, crossbows, longbows, spears and daggeraxes. (These originals, more than 10,000 of them, have long since been put away in storage and replaced with replicas). It must have been a truly incredible sight to behold.

Considering it was lost for 2200 years the Terracotta Army's discovery is a miracle that we should be grateful for. But as man was responsible for its demise in the first place one can not help but feel a little angered. For if this is the way our predecessors treated such cultural treasures it makes me wonder what else there is waiting to be discovered.

Or more pertinantly, what other relics of history my generation is being deprived of.

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Friday 24th June 2005

Such was my enjoyment of the nation's capital that I was a bit loath to leave Beijing. Indeed so indifferent was I about the prospect of moving on that I spent much of the flight to Xian in a state of regret. However as our plane began its descent, a casual glance out of the window at a landscape that suddenly and seemlessly changed from dramatic lush green jagged mountain peaks to a vast flat carpet of bottle green plains instantly ignited my interest. For this staggering, majestic view triggered in my mind an article I read ages ago. The general gist of which conveyed how in bygone years Xian tussled with Rome and Constantinople for the title of world's greatest city.

With over 35,000 historical sights of interest there is enough impirical evidence to hint at a glorious past. Yet what got me about this article was not just that I had never even heard of the place, but rather that this place I had never heard of accommodated a population of over 6.5 million people. A greater number of residents than around a quarter of the world's countries. At the time I remember finding this mindblowing and as I stared out of the window at the changing landscape below me the realisation reaffirmed in my mind that there was still so much more to see in this big, big country. A view which was ratified on our arrival in Xian.

Contained within one of the few remaining city walls in the country Xian holds a magnificent setting. An imperious rectangular structure that stands 12 metres high and between 12-18 metres thick the rampart, which features a striking collection of gateways and towers, has a circumference of 14km. Within its confines the spectacular array of pagodas and monuments, which like Beijing jostle for attention with western fast food outlets and designer shops, provide a stark reminder of Xian's historical legacy. Among them the magnificent 18th century Bell Tower which stands regally, Arch de Triomphe like, on a roundabout in the centre of the city is the most notable.

Although we were lucky enough to stay at a hotel that directly faced the structure, which at night sparkled under the illumination of light, it was something we were slow to appreciate. Infact our initial impression of Xian was none too favourable. A combination of the stifling heat, which soared past 100 degrees, and a small gang of street kids who kept pestering anyone of western appearance, made us rather homesick for Beijing. However as we began to acclimatise to these factors and embarked upon a wider exploration of the city, it quickly came to grow in our esteem.

Suffering from the affliction 'all templed out syndrome' which I am sure affects most travellers to Asia at some point, we devoted much of our time in Xian to emmersing ourselves in the local culture. As much as one can when they are staying in a luxurious (yet at 45 American dollars a night wonderfully affordable!) 4 star hotel. The principle focus of such endeavours, the Muslim Quarter, a chaotic jumble of market streets selling souvenirs, clothing accessories and islamic food and the Bell Tower Square, a central gathering spot for locals to socialise, provided fantastic opportunities for people watching.

Whether it be eating the delicious but very spicy street food or flying kites that glide over 100 feet in the air, we certainly ended up loving the time we spent here.

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Thursday 23rd June 2005

Despite our romantic inclinations to waltz around the country via its extensive road network, or its estimated 52km of railway lines, China is so big that the only real option for traversing its 9.5 million sq km landmass is to fly. Even though this would mean bypassing a close up ground view of its topography, which ranges from precipitous mountains with peaks that soar above 6000 metres to flat non-descript plains that bring to mind the prairies of South Dakota, at the end of the day when faced with the choice of a 14 hour train journey on a crowded, jolting train or a 1.5 hour flight, there really was only ever going to be one winner. However that is not to say though that we approached today's transit with gay abandon. For as we sat buckled into our seats, with our plane to Xian proceeding to take off, my mind suddenly recollected that of the numerous news snippets I had witnessed on television over the years of planes crashing, a disproportionate amount of the ones I could remember were in China. Thankfully we were to discover that the country's air carriers were just as safe as other nations.

When we left London for Beijing we embarked on a huge step into the unknown. Although we had our preconceptions, bourne from the literature we read, and the testimonials of our friends Banz and Vic, we did not really know what to expect. What we found was a pulsating city in the midst of a major transition. A place striving to marry together the culture, tradition and history that built the entire country with the modern comforts of 21st century living. Where Macdonalds and designer shopping malls stand out just as much as the monuments and temples that showcase China's glorious past. It is a fascinating metamorphis and one that represents the dawning of a new way of living. Yet whether this is indicative for the rest of the country remains to be seen.

Maybe our time in Xian will give us a better idea.

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Tuesday 21st June 2005

Contained within a total area that exceeds 16,800 square kilometres Beijing's municipality is comparable to the size of Belgium. However as its numerous attractions are scattered across a sprawling grid of traffic choked roads which are so long that it takes over 30 minutes to walk the equivalent of one stop on the underground train network, it can be difficult to get around. Consequently for the sake of comfort and convenience we decided, for the third day running, to enrol for a day long excursion with Grayline.

Having spent our first few days in Beijing concentrating our sightseeing efforts on the 'Big Three', - The Great Wall, Tiananmen Square and The Forbidden City -, today's tour took us to what can reasonably be considered the next big three. Beijing Zoo, the Summer Palace and what turned out to be our first port of call The Lama Temple.

Even in a city with hundreds of temples, the Lama Temple manages to stand out as being special. The largest lamasery in Beijing and the most revered Tibetan Buddhist temple outside of Tibet, the religious complex is undoubtedly one of the most colourful that we have ever visited. Housed within a stunning collection of beautiful structures replete with wonderfully ornate rooftops, the Lama Temple contains a number of precious Buddhist and imperial treasures. Among them an awe-inspiring array of frescoes, tapestries and ornaments impress. However without question its most cherished possession is the 55 foot high sandalwood statue of the Maitreya Buddha that is located in its Wanfu Pavilion. Towering majestically above us resplendant with a carved facade of the most intricate and meticulous detail the statue is remarkable not just because of its design but also because it is made from the tallest single piece of sandalwood ever used to create an ediface. A fact, proudly displayed by its entrance, that has been ratified by the Guiness Book of World Records.

On leaving the lavish surroundings of the Lama Temple we were due to spend some time marvelling at the cuteness and cuddlyness of the world famous panda's at Beijing Zoo. A rare and endangered species whose natural habitat lies in remote mountain areas of South West China, we had been really looking forward to observing these adorable creatures at play. But as all of the panda's on display seemed to be in a deep trance like state of slumber when we got there, and considering the zoo's overall depressing prison like demeanour, our visit was cut rather short. However as this gave us more time to enjoy our delicious all inclusive Chinese buffet lunch in a VIP room of a rather plush restaurant it was not necessarily a bad thing.

After lunch our tour moved on to its headline attraction, the magnificent Summer Palace. Noted for its distinct lack of a palace the site originated as a royal garden which served as a social playground for the imperial court and a welcome retreat for monarchs to avoid the insufferable summer heat that basted The Forbidden City. Having undergone a number of major revamps over the years, most notably under the leadership of Emperor Qianlong in the 18th century, Emperor Dourager Cixi in 1888 and Chairman Mao shortly after he took power in 1949 the complex has evolved today into what Grayline's tourist literature called 'a virtual museum of traditional Chinese gardening'.

Dominated by the stoic waters of Kunming Lake, a man made creation that covers more than three quarters of the park, the Summer Palace is a scintilating mix of temples, pavilions and landscaped gardens that form a truly beautiful setting. Although the many thousands of visitors that descend on the venue each day suggests otherwise the Summer Palace does emit an ambience of harmonious serenity. Furthermore with over 3000 sites of interest, most notably the 700 metre Long Corridor which is decorated with 10,000 paintings of mythical scenes, it is a retreat, I imagine, that you would never tire of visiting. The kind of place where each new visit brings a new discovery. A freshly manicured landscape or an artifact you had not previously noted. As we strolled around its confines it soon became evident as to why the Summer Palace was so popular amongst the royals. Indeed when I remembered that they spent all their time between this place and The Forbidden City one thing became abundantly clear to me.

Even by today's opulent standards, the Chinese monarchy really knew how to live.

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Monday 20th June 2005

Reputed to be the largest cemetary in the world and the only man made structure visible from space, The Great Wall is undoubtedly China's most iconic symbol. A World Heritage Site and one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the rampart extends for more than 4000 miles from Shanhaiguan on the east coast to the remote outpost of Jiayuguan in Mongolia's Gobi Desert. Without question it is the greatest fortification in the history of mankind, not to mention one of the world's foremost must see sights. Needless to say it was somewhere we had been very much looking forward to visiting.

Built to protect the middle kingdom from Mongol attack during the Qin dynasty of 221-207 BC the original wall, under the leadership of one Emperor Qin Shihaung, who oversaw the unification of China, used an estimated 180 million cubic metres of rammed earth to link up a number of separate walls that had previously been erected by independant kingdoms to keep out menacing nomads. However as this structure proved ineffective as a defence line the wall underwent a major revamp during the Qing dynasty when more than 60m cubic metres of bricks and stone slabs were used to reinforce the rampart over a period of 100 years. For both efforts hundreds of thousands of workers were used in extremely punishing conditions. Hardly surprising then that the cost of human life and resources was enormous. Indeed legend has it that the remains of those who died whilst working were simply incorporated into the construction of the wall.

With 6 sections of the wall accessible from Beijing, having consulted our guide book, it soon became apparent to us that in order to fully appreciate the magnificence of the structure we should go to a couple of its locations. Consequently we deemed it prudent to sign up for two day long excursions with the excellent Grayline tour operator.

After visits to Changling, the largest of the 13 burial chambers that make up the Ming Tombs and a brief, rather dull exploration of a jade factory, we caught our first glimpse of The Great Wall at Badaling. Although something we had seen countless times on television our first view of the wall, stretching off into a distant horizon of broccoli topped trees, at an elevation of 1000 metres was simply awe-inspiring. When we took our first tentative steps along its footpath the tingling in our stomachs signified that we were experiencing something truly special. Yet it was a feeling that did not last.

As its best preserved and maintained section Badaling attracts more visitors than any other part of the wall. Unfortunately though this popularity, couple with the proliferation of souvenir shops, restaurants and even a magnetic levitation train ride, radiates the disappointing feel of an amusement park. An ambience so overwhelming that it was hard for us to remember that we were visiting one of the world's foremost historical sites. The inclement weather did not help. A thick cloak of smog reduced visibility greatly.

But more detrimental to our enjoyment was the constant distraction of the people around us. Instead of savouring our ascent, when surrounded by thousands of marauding day trippers squawking at the top of their voices, our time on the wall turned in to an impromptu game of dodge as we found ourselves having to negotiate a ferocious tide of oncoming tourists in between elongated bouts of stopping ourselves from walking in to other people's photographs. After a while it became quite frustrating and started to negatively affect our levels of enjoyment. Furthermore as this section of the wall was remarkably pristine, almost infact as if it had only recently been built, we left Badaling with an overall sense of disappointment at not having enjoyed a truly authentic wall experience.

By contrast when we returned the next day the section of wall at Mutianyu was exactly what we were hoping to see. On a glorious day of translucent skies and microwave sunshine the view of the rampart strecthing imperiously into the distance up a steep incline of mountain foliage was as dramtic as it was awe-inspiring. The kind of once-in-a-blue-moon 'pinch yourself' moment that rarely touches you.

After reaching the structure, having tackled the rapacious mob of touts and market stall traders that greeted our alighting of a cable car which, despite our worst fears about its sturdiness, crawled serenely up the mountain face for more than 500 feet, we were rewarded with an oasis of tranquility. With less than 20 people visible in the entire panoramic vicinity, whereas the previous day there had been that many people within hugging distance, we were able to really appreciate the wall's magnificence. Walking past a succession of its impressive guard towers we began to disgest just how incredible a feat of construction the rampart is. Especially considering how the wall rises and slopes imperceptibly along the mountainous terrain. However as we found out a stroll along the rocky wall, in the blistering heat, can be very demanding and pretty quickly any thoughts we harboured of undertaking a longer exploration of it diminished to the depths of our minds. Indeed when I later discovered that only 3 people have ever walked the entire length of the wall, an American trio who had to obtain special permission from the Chinese Government for their 9 month trek, I was genuinely surprised.

For it was 3 more people than I ever thought possible.

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Friday 17th June 2005

With a new found impetus bourne from the sense of achievement gained by securing the number of bargains we did yesterday we set about exploring the city today with a strict focus on sightseeing. Considering how much there is too see in Beijing though it proved difficult at first to determine a suitable starting point. However after quickly accessing our options, we concluded that having previously failed to truly take in our surroundings in Tiananmen Sqaure we should make this our intial port of call.

Created by Chairman Mao, Tiananmen Square at 44 hectares in size is the larget city center square in the world. Flanked by a boundary of foreboding monuments including Tiananmen, The Gate of Heavenly Peace, The Great Hall of the People, which houses the National People's Congress, The Front Gate, The Chinese Revolution History Museum, The Mao Mausoleum and The Monument to the People's Heroes, this vast concrete ocean is justifiably considered to be Beijing's epicenter. An expansive social playground where children fly brightly decorated kites, whilst adults aimlessly pass the time of day.

Aside from having to repel a continuous stream of students and panhandlers, all of whom eagerly try to persuade you to part with a few renminbi, Tiananmen Square really is an enchanting place. A serene environment that radiates an intriguing mix of orderliness and congeniality. However it has not always been this way. For over the latter half of the 20th century Tiananmen Square has witnessed some of the most significant and notorious events in the city's recent history, namely when more than 1 million people packed into the sqaure to pay their last respects to Chairman Mao when he died in 1976 and when army tanks and soldiers disbanded pro-democracy campaigners in 1989. Today as we soent about 30 minutes strolling across its vast concrete pavement it struck me that Tiananmen Square seemed to epitomise Beijing's psyche in the current phase of change. For although the sight of a huge digital clock counting down the number of days until the start of the city's hosting of the 2008 Olympic Games is symbolic of the fact that the country has opened its doors to the rest of the world, the continuing presence of soldiers standing guard at strategic points around the area suggests that it is a transition that is not exactly whole hearted.

After exiting the south side of Tiananmen Sqaure we wandered through the iconic Tiananmen Gate, The Gate of Heavenly Peace, emblazoned upon which is an enormous portrait of Chairman Mao and the slogan's 'Long love the People's Republic of China' and 'Long live the unity of the people's of the world', before making our way into the imperious complex of The Forbidden City. Officially known as 'Gugong', the Palace Mueseum, the largest collection of ancient architecture in China has been labelled 'The Forbidden City' because for more than 500 years entry into it for most ordinary people was strictly prohibited. Indeed anyone who did try to get in uninvited would have been ruthlessly and brutally killed. Housing two dynasties of emperors the Ming and the Qing, who ruled between 1368-1911 and remained within its confines unless it was absolutely necessary to leave, the main lay out of the city was created between 1406 and 1420 by Emperor Yongle who reputedly commanded upwards of one million labourers during construction of the 72 hectare palace complex. It was from here for half a millennium that China was ruled.

Although most of the buildings are second, third and fourth plus generation restorations of the originals which were destroyed by man made and natural catastrophes like fire and earthquakes, the existing gaggle of structures which include around 10,000 intricate carvings, decorations and paintings in its wide assortment of rooms, temples, theatres and gardens are still mightily impressive. Despite the vast crowds of visitors who descend upon the attraction, when you are surrounded by such a striking portrayal of the splendour and lavishness of the Chinese Imperial Court it is not difficult to imagine what life must have been like for the ruling emporers. Hardly surprising then that they liked to withdraw into the cocooned world of comfort that lay within the palace walls.

After spending just a few short hours there ourselves it was a concept we began to readily relate to.

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Thursday 16th June 2005

They say that jetlag occurs when you pass through more than 10 time zones in one transit. As there are 24 in total and we passed through more than 15 of them en route to Beijing the writing was pretty much on the wall for us. so it came as no real surprise when, despite being pretty tired when we went to bed at 11pm, we woke up involuntarily 2 hours later and proceeded to spend the next 4 hours in a state of perpetual alertness. It was not until past 5am, after watching Germany narrowly edge out Australia 4-3 in a rather entertaining Confederations Cup football match that we managed to fall back into a deep sleep. By the time we woke up again it was almost 1.30pm.

One of the problems with backpacking is that your attire is solely confined to the few items of clothes that you can fit into your carry bag. Having been more or less continuously travelling for the best part of a year our style of dress had increasingly started to get us down. So much so that wearing the same clothes everyday had become an increasing source of angst. A makeover was long overdue. Thankfully we found salvation at the Xiushui Silk Market.

Such was our intent on visiting the market the fact hardly registered in our minds as our journey there took us through Tiananmen Square. Indeed so busy were we taking mental inventory of the number of clothes items we wanted to purchase that it was only after we left the huge expanse of concrete pavement that it dawned on us that we had just traversed one China's most iconic and famous landmarks without barely taking it in. A cardinal sin for travellers, but one we knew we would put right in the not too distant future.

Located over 4 bustling floors of chaotic dysfunction the Xiushui Silk Market is a tumultuous collection of stalls selling a head spinning range of designer clothes, fashion accessories and silkwares. It also doubles as an unofficial spotting point for other tourists who are otherwise conspicious by their absence on the streets of Beijing. With a full gamet of brand names on offer including Nike, Calvin Klein, Hilfiger, Gucci and Timberland the market is a bargain hunters paradise. One that even the most ardent anti-shopper could not fail to be seduced by. Although as bartering with the over exhuberent, viciferous, in-your-face stall owners is standard practice it is an experience that can be quite exhausting.

As the process of haggling is essentially a test of nerve the degree to which one obtains a bargain very much depends on their ability to stick to their guns. Indeed half the fun of the fair is trying to eavesdrop on other tourists to see what price they end up paying. Thankfully for me though as Cath is a champion shopper she was well adapt at negotiating for us a satisfactorily low price, and consequently after more than 4 hours of shopping we found ourselves the proud owners of 12 new products for the mere sum of 20 pounds. More to the point in the space of an afternoon our wardrobe had transformed from drab to the height of trendiness.

For the next couple of weeks we are sure to be two of the most fashionable backpackers arounds.

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Wednesday 15th June 2005

Although we have taken a number of flights during the course of our big trip today's was by far the most poigniant as it represented our final departure from London. As the plane took off from Heathrow and I surveyed the dense sprawl of buildings that comprise the surrounding suburbs from a lofty birds eye perspective I could not help but feel a tinge of sadness at the friends, family and cherished creature comforts that I was leaving behind. Especially when ot began to dawn on me that it was likely to be a long time until I found myself in their presence again. However as our aircraft was equipped with an excellent in-flight entertainment system, and with clear skies showcasing the sublime landscapes of the Baltic coastline and the mountains of China from 33,000 feet, it was not a thought I dwelled on for too long. Indeed apart from a small bout of turbulence, which caused a moment of mild panic when it appeared as if we had dropped a few hundred feet in a couple of seconds, our flight to Beijing was pretty smooth.

With a population exceeding 1 billion people spread across 21 provinces and 5 'autonomous regions' China is the third largest country in the world at 9.5 million square kilometers. Containing one of the world's oldest and continuing civilisations, a rich colourful history and perhaps the most popular cuisine on earth the country is one of the most fascinating travel destinations to visit. However for us it is very much a journey into the unknown and one that potentially can throw us many challenges, not least in dealing with language barriers . Consequently with this in mind we decided to ease ourselves into our new surroundings by checking in to a Holiday Inn.

As our previous experience of this brand of accommodation in America had been satisfactory we kind of knew what to expect. However as soon as our taxi pulled into the hotel's forecourt and we were met by a smartly attired bellgirl it quickly became evident that we had spectacularly underestimated what we were going to receive. For what we found was an establishment whose facilities were specifically geared towards businessmen. With a pool, 2 restaurants and a variety of other services it may not exactly have been classic backpacking but we were not complaining and after a power nap in a huge comfortable bed, a hot steaming shower and a soothing 45 minute full body massage (which only cost 10 pounds!) we felt sufficiently invigorated to explore the area.

In the end we did not get too far, such was the strength of the stifling heat, but the short time we did spend wandering about our surroundings proved extremely rewarding. With its long pavements, flashing neon lights and the relentless force of the oppressive humidity, downtown Beijing has a distinct Vegas air about it. Yet watching the locals go about their daily business and enjoying our first taste of authentic Chinese cuisine provided us with a fantastic and tantalising glimpse of what is to come.

Over the next 6 weeks we can not wait to see what unfolds.

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Friday 10th June 2005

We have been really busy since we arrived back in London.

Between catching up with family and friends, organising our visas for China and Vietnam and packing boxes for Australia we have hardly had any time to ourselves. But thankfully now most of the jobs that we have had to do have now been completed and we can start to relax for a couple of days.

As you may have noticed I have also managed to upload the photographs from the Europe leg of our big trip to this blog. These can be found in the picture gallery links on the menu bar.

As you can see, in order to reduce the download time for slower computers, I have posted thumbnails of the pictures into 6 different pages. Each photograph has a brief description that can be accessed by dragging your mouse over it and can be enlarged by simply clicking on the image.

We hope you enjoy looking at them!

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